Terroir هي واحدة من تلك الكلمات الطنانة التي يحتضنها الجميع في عالم النبيذ ، ولكن ماذا تعني حقًا؟ وهل لها تأثير على الخمور التي يدعي المنتجون؟ روبرت جوي يحفر بعمق لمعرفة ذلك
Terroir هي واحدة من تلك الكلمات الطنانة التي يحتضنها الجميع في عالم النبيذ ، ولكن ماذا تعني حقًا؟ وهل لها تأثير على الخمور التي يدعي المنتجون؟ روبرت جوي يحفر بعمق لمعرفة ذلك
افا في أيام حياتنا
إلى الجنوب من كوندريو في شمال الرون تقع تسمية شاتو-جريل الصغيرة. تبلغ مساحتها 3.4 هكتار من الكروم على المنحدرات الشديدة للمدرج الطبيعي تنتج كميات دقيقة من النبيذ من نفس صنف العنب والتربة مثل جارتها الأكبر ، كوندريو. ولكن تم الاعتراف به منذ عام 1936 باعتباره مكيفًا منفصلًا ، ويباع بسعر أعلى بكثير. تؤكد مالكتها ، إيزابيل باراتين-كانيه ، أن أصالة النبيذ المصنوع من تربته الجرانيتية والتعرض المواجه للجنوب قد تم التعرف عليه لعدة قرون. لكن بعض جيرانها يتساءلون عما إذا كان هناك مثل هذا الاختلاف بين أرضي Château-Grillet و Condrieu.
إن الفكرة القائلة بأن مناطق معينة من الأرض تنتج نبيذًا كبيرًا بشكل خاص ليست جديدة. أشار الفيلسوف ، جون لوك ، الذي زار بوردو عام 1677 ، إلى 'الخصوصية في تربة' Château Haut-Brion التي ميزتها عن جيرانها. أرجع كتاب للأبوت أرنو ، نُشر في لندن عام 1728 ، عظمة مونتراشيت في بورغوندي إلى قطاع معين من الأرض في كوت دور.
ما هي ظاهرة حديثة هو استخدام كلمة 'terroir' لوصف الفكرة. كانت دلالاته الفرنسية الأصلية تحقيرية. حتى منتصف القرن العشرين ، كان النبيذ terroité يعني نبيذًا ريفيًا ترابيًا مع ، في أحسن الأحوال ، نوعًا من سحر اليوكيل ، وفي أسوأ الأحوال ، عيوب. نبيذ مع goût de terroir (نكهة terroir) كان نبيذًا رديئًا يتذوق من العنب غير الناضج أو الفاسد. لم تظهر فكرة terroir كسمة أكثر إيجابية حتى ولادة نظام تكييف الهواء في الثلاثينيات.
لكل فرد تعريفه الخاص لـ terroir. ربما يكون أبسطها هو كاتب النبيذ الأمريكي مات كرامر ، الذي يصفه بأنه 'مكان ما'. تتضمن معظم التعريفات الفرنسية ، بما في ذلك تعريف INAO (الهيئة المسؤولة عن نظام AC في فرنسا) ، أربعة عناصر رئيسية: الخصائص الفيزيائية للمكان (خاصة التربة والتعرض) ، ومناخه ، وصنف العنب المستخدم ، والدور الذي يلعبه الإنسان .
مسلسل Hell's Kitchen الموسم الخامس عشر الحلقة 11
قلة من الناس قد يجادلون في الفرضية الأساسية القائلة بأن الخمور تستمد خصائص معينة من مكان زراعة العنب ، وأن الرجل يلعب دورًا في التعبير عن تلك الخصائص. ولكن بالنظر إلى أن كل منتج نبيذ تقريبًا هذه الأيام يدعي إنتاج نبيذ يحترم terroir ، ويدعي اتباع نهج 'عدم التدخل' ، فإن المستهلك لديه كل الأسباب للتساؤل عما تعنيه terroir في الممارسة.
أيام من حياتنا بول وسوني
جذور terroir
ربما لأن الكلمة مشابهة لكلمة 'تضاريس' ، فإننا نميل إلى ربط terroir بشكل أساسي بالتربة. وهذا بدوره يمكن أن يشجع على فكرة أن النبيذ يستمد طعمًا مباشرًا من التربة التي يزرع فيها.
أحد الأمثلة الكلاسيكية هو شابلي ، أحد أكثر أنواع النبيذ شهرة في العالم. على الرغم من كونه مصنوعًا من أنواع العنب الموجودة في كل مكان ، إلا أن تعبير شابلي لشاردونيه يختلف عن أي منطقة أخرى. أكثر أنواع النبيذ شهرة تأتي من طباشير Kimmeridgian الناعم ، المكون من قشور المحار التي تعود إلى عصور ما قبل التاريخ.
غالبًا ما يربط منتجو النبيذ وكتاب النبيذ بين مذاق اليود الصافي المميز للنبيذ وجيولوجيا المنطقة. يسأل برنارد بيلود سيمون: 'كيف يمكنك تفسير الملاحظات المدعمة باليود في تشابلي إن لم يكن من خلال تكوين تربتها؟'. 'لا تجد هذا الطعم في شاردونيه ينمو في مكان آخر.'
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مقالات مثيرة للاهتمام
